We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. BLack DIAMOND ATC Guide belay device Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear, for good reason. For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. I recently needed an autolocker and had a bad experience with the BD ATC Guide. The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and problem-free applications on the rope. Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC guide, Wild Country Pro Guide, Mammut Wall Alpine wszystkie te przyrządy działają tak samo i są niesamowicie przydatne i uniwersalne. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 Petzl Reverso, Verso, Grigri A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying . Features Clip a carabiner to the carabiner hole and give a tug to easily and gradually release the loaded device while in Reverso mode Not a big enough difference that I'd recommend one over the other. Additionally, it comes in purple, which is definitely exciting. I have always loved the outdoors and I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). And yes we are scared of falling. without blocking support, the rope must be kept active at all times. Exactly here a small innovation shows up. The current Reverso looks more like an ATC belay device, but with the same functionality." Rock Climbing Equipment List. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. It works with a great rope range, weighs almost nothing, and can also belay in guide’s mode. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. Later was added Reverso 2, which is Reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different Reverso 3 and after that lightweight Reverso 4. Similar to the operation Release rope, the point Operation Release rope is an important criterion for our comparison. Friend of mine tried to rappel on thick rope (11mm?) Either will work if you anticipate doing lots of multipitch with one second. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. The problem can be caused and even intensified by too much friction of the rope. In the section Operation Rope dispensing, the focus is on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be dispensed. The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Belaying with the REVERSO The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. As an important safety feature, it is important to know how well the device blocks in the event of a fall. A decisive factor here is the safety buffer that is still available in the event of faulty belay behavior. Oh, and they come in different colors! Its intuitive use allows the control of the brake friction on the rope. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. With the Autotube, the rope runs directly over the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear. most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. particularly in guide mode. The situation is different with the Autotube. The ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond behaves similarly. Device dynamic securing is not possible with them. Its integrated braking system is suitable for ropes with different diameters and rope properties. They are almost identical in design, save for the orientation of the guide hole (the Reverso’s is … The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. Due to the blocking support, all main automatic belay devices can be secured by body dynamics only. As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes. The difference between Autotuber and semi-automatic is on the one hand the braking hand position. At only 59g, the Petzl Reverso 4 belay device is 25% lighter than the previous version yet offers the same versatility for belaying and rappelling. During longer belay phases, however, a great deal of force is required with the braking hand. What is missing, however, is the blocking support. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. using the Reverso and found the device was constantly sticking. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. I'm looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone know of any major differences between these two devices? For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. One of the biggest advantages of the ATC Guide is that it can be used without karabiners. I own a reverso and it works great for me, but I bet I'd be able to make an ATC Guide work just as well. How well are karabiners and rope compatible with each other? Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. ... Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases if you decide to make a purchase through these links – at no cost for you! It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. Press J to jump to the feed. For not much more money than the Mantis, climbers can get a device that has increased functionality in a very compact package. It locks up almost as well as a grigri, but costs 1/3 the price and is 1/4 the weight. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. Poniżej znajdziesz kilka obrazków zaczerpniętych z dokumentacji firmy Petzl pokazującej właściwe … With a weight of around 80g, the tube is suitable for all types of rope, whether single rope, twin rope or half rope. Either a special and very high-quality karabiner is necessary or wear and tear of the karabiner occurs quickly. Reverso is lighter and can handle slightly thinner ropes. Clip a locking carabiner into the belay anchor point. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. Secure yourself into the locking carabiner with a … Reverso is versatile belay device made by French company Petzl. Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. This is just a minor personal preference though, depending on how you will generally build your anchors. Petzl's logic was the growing popularity of using a "master biner" on the anchor. So I decided to try the Petzel "guide" style autolocking belay device. This is due to the V-shaped braking grooves with their asymmetrical lateral notches. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). Its ergonomic construction completes the belay device. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. However, the rope diameter should be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters. I climb on 9.8 rope, and I'm looking into getting into top belaying and some more multi pitch. the atc guide is much easier. I use it exclusively when climbing for fun or when guiding. Petzl Reverso Belay Device. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. Auto-block (resistance belaying a second) The largest difference between the Reverso and the other auto-block devices we compared it to is the friction in auto-block … the atc guide is much easier. Weighing only 65 grams, it's lighter than Black Diamond's 88-gram ATC Guide but slightly heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso. Some work better for smaller ropes like the Petzl Reverso while others are designed for slightly larger ropes like BD’s ATC. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Top 6 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Beginners, Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 - Comparison, Belaying heavy climbers: technique + special equipment, alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing, alpine climbing, multi-rope climbing, sport climbing, Not the lightest tuber on the market, but also not the heaviest, Requires additionally up to 3 HMS carabiners, Dumping in the post-run mode requires know-how and concentration, Weight: 80 g (manufacturer’s specification), Cable thicknesses: single 8.9 – 11 mm, half and twin 8.1 – 11 mm, Material: hot forged and anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, Suitable for half ropes with a minimum diameter of 8 mm, Suitable for twin ropes with diameter minimum 7,5 mm, Suitable for single ropes with a minimum diameter of 8.9 mm, Weight: 59 g (manufacturer’s specification). However, special karabiners are sometimes necessary to ensure safe operation. The auto locking feature when belaying your second directly off the anchor has another nifty capability that many folks are not aware of: rope ascender. Although the device is not a world first, you can clearly feel that the handling and operation have been significantly improved. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … Especially for beginners, the ATC Guide offers a perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio. Only upside to the GiGi is feeding slack is like butter, which saves strength and elbows. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable Web sites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. We have divided the criteria of what makes a good belay device into blocking support, safety reserve, operation to release the rope, operation to release, handling and compatibility of karabiner and rope. In the semi-automatic machine, the rope only runs through the device. They don't see as much use on big walls. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide*is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide* is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ Press enter for more information. level 1. ATC guide is more durable. The Petzl Reverso is a popular go-to belay device. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. The ATC-Guide is my preferred device when using single ropes (i.e. Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. but for everyday multipitch and alpine climbing they are very common. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. Because the device makes a good impression when it is secured. GriGri cannot belay two seconds, reverso and guide can... To be honest, buy whatever's cheaper. Which is the better belay device? For sheer versatility, whether you are alpine or ice climbing, heading up El Cap, sport or trad climbing or even TR-ing in the gym, ATC devices are impossible to beat. This means that holding the fall is less dependent on your own strength. How easy is it to control and dose the release speed? Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. As a further criterion, existing safety reserves play an important role. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your harness’s belay loop with a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot. The main difference is the orientation of the devices in autolocking mode. Here the rope runs between the device and the karabiner. There is very little difference between the two and most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. And now I want to share what I have learned with you. The Black Diamond ATC Guide (left) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (right). If you want two seconds, get a GiGi. As if that were not enough, it is also important that the rope is held in the correct position. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. ATC guide is much nicer to use on ropes over about 10/10.2. Links marked with * are affiliate links. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. For this reason, the Reverso 4 can also be used to secure one or even two subsequent climbers. Whether it’s climbing, belaying a descendant or abseiling at the top of a route, the Reverso 4 convinces with all the facets that climbing has to offer. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. Here is an overview table of the most important features: A good belay device convinces by its blocking support. Hi, my name is Martin. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison. Seconded. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. If the braking hand is in the correct position, the Autotuber will automatically lock. The market is large and the offer is even larger. This page describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called Reverso 1. Still undecided? The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. The biner hole is parallel to the device on the reverso and perpendicular with the guide. We compare the Black Diamond ATC Guide* with the Reverso 4* from Petzl. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … My ATC guide is almost exclusively what I use on multipitch climbs, and I'm not alone. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. "it is more difficult to pay out slack on a Gri-Gri than on an ATC" "Using a Gri-gri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices such as the ATC guide or Reverso" Boristeph 08:57, 23 March 2011 (UTC) Petzl sells an overpriced biner that does this in one biner, ... One difference too is the horizontal guide mood loop of the Pivot vs the vertical guide loop of the ATC Guide. However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … Some have the auto-brake hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted vertically. Petzl has improved on the design of the Reverso, but the BD ATC-Guide is still a better device. Autotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. Both guides can belay two seconds. But if you are, then it doesn't really matter which one you get. If, for example, you want to let go of a climbing partner, the braking effect is increased thanks to the braking aid available. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other? While semi-automatic machines lock independently of the braking hand, the Autotube requires the correct positioning of the braking hand. With the Autotube, on the other hand, the rope is clamped between the belay device and the karabiner. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E.g. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. It is also convincing thanks to its low weight of only 59g. Cookies help us deliver our Services. The price/performance ratio of the Reverso 4 is well balanced. The blocking mechanism in semi-automatic machines is generated by clamping the rope inside the machine. For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a large safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves. 5 years ago. Flexible in use and easy to handle, the Reverso 4 is a convincing all-rounder for beginners. A long service life and functionality are convincing. It worked fine with my 9.3 mm rope, but was nearly unusable in the gym with their fat, fuzzy top ropes. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. What Gear do I Need to Start? We also examine in detail how the braking hand principle affects your own safety in case of injury. 5 years ago. I have to … However, the handling and the general durability are slightly better with the Black Diamond ATC Guide*. Both are great atc's from good companies . Why would you say that? If you are a climber, it is important that you can release rope quickly without neglecting the brake rope. Only for sport climbing this device is not suitable. Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSO and UNIREVERSO). 1 color available. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. Then these articles could help you: Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! How easy can this feature be implemented for beginners? The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. Compared to the conventional tube, the device blocks completely and alone. If you are looking for a classic tube without autotube function, the ATC Guide from Black Diamond is the best choice. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. A multifunctional belay/rappel device for 1 or 2 climbers, the Petzl Reverso belay device is a lightweight, durable option for cragging, multipitch climbing and mountaineering. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. Small drawback: The rope run depends on the diameter and the nature of the rope. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. The position of the braking hand always affects the braking effect. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. The Reverso and ATC Guide are hard to differentiate. Both the atc guide and reverso provide autolocking functionality while bringing up a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent. This allows a more controlled dumping maneuver, even with very thin rope diameters. The information on climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. The home of Climbing on reddit. For this reason, the ATC Guide Tube is not suitable for sport climbing. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. The brake teeth on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the ATC. I'm slightly leaning towards the Reverso now, but I like u/maxxattk9's advice with flipping a coin. On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. The operation of the Reverso 4* from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device. The guide doesnt wear to a sharp edge as fast, Its also better on ropes that are a bit thicker, Unless u need the reverso weight savings, get the guide for the durability. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. The focus is on jerky, hard and soft, slow falls. The fact that too fast or uncontrolled release of the rope is a frequent cause of accidents is an important feature. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. 2 colors available. The BD ATC-Guide is my go-to device. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Which is the better belay device? However, if you are looking for a multifunctional device for all vertical activities, the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a must. Due to its simple design, its operation is very clear and safe (provided that it is properly secured with the braking hand). sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. The passage of the rope is therefore stopped abruptly. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. The single connection point is easier to use and more stable than the B-52, and the thick aluminum lasts longer than the thin material of the Reverso. There is usually no contact with the karabiner. With a Tuber, an angle of 90 degrees between the guide rope and the brake rope is necessary to achieve a braking effect. A slightly fancier version of the tubular belay device has an extra loop of metal on the back, which allows it to function in “guide mode.” This enables you to belay a second from above with a greater degree of security. If you're not doing multi pitch or top belaying I wouldn't buy one. The braking effect already starts at an angle between 10 and 45 degrees. Get whichever fits with your anchor style. If you're not doing multipitch there is no reason to have one. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes.
Spicy Cucumber Salsa, Matador Titan 6 Burner Built In Manual, Lower Triangular Matrix Example, Samsung Flex Washer And Dryer Reviews, Yehwadam Hwansaenggo Review, Marketing Manager Salary, Intellectual Topics To Discuss With Your Girlfriend, Casio Cdp-s100 Canada, Full Auto Sear Kit,