More flexible, streamlined single boots often forgo the toe welt and otherwise shave weight by having a thinner last. Scarpa Phantom 8000 Mountaineering Boot 3.0 out of 5 stars 1 rating. So, if you feel discomfort while trying a boot, then itâs a red flag. IMO the warmth/altitude rating on the boots would be as follows: G5 (5000-6000) -> Phantom 6000 (6500) -> G2SM (6000-8000) -> Olympus Mons Evo (8000+). The boot uses EVA technology with shock-absorbing ability. In fact, this boot is closer in warmth, weight, and technicality to the La Sportiva G5 and Scarpa Phantom Tech. All in all, for a technical climbing boot that is warm, durable, and performs extremely well on steep terrain, the Phantom Tech is a great choice.See the Scarpa Phantom Tech. At the same time, these boots will be overkill at the Ouray Ice Park (but still may work if that’s the only boot you have). Unlike their lift-assisted alpine cousins, backcountry skis have two jobs: getting you uphill efficiently while retaining enough power to make the downhill worth the effort (and fun). Lacing systems should be simple, but efficient. Socks. If we’re climbing anything that is remotely approaching vertical, we want an automatic crampon. One of its significant features is its removable liner which lets you dry the boot during the night. Those boots have stiffer soles and have required features to support front pointing. Our tester trusted his old Trango Extremes to summit Fitz Roy in Patagonia, climb grade 6 waterfalls in Canada, and stay warm on overnight technical ascents in Alaska. Scarpa Phantom Tech Mountaineering Boot 4.6 out of 5 stars 2. The Mons Evo is a super light double boot with inner boot insulation and a thermo-reflective lined outer boot. Scarpa Phantom 6000. Scarpa Phantom 8000 is one of the warmest high altitude climbing boots. Category: 4-season technical alpine/lightweight mountaineeringBody design: Single syntheticWeight per pair: 3 lbs. Furthermore, the one-hand lacing systems on both the inner and outer boot mean that you don’t even have to take off your mitten to batten down the hatches. 8.2 oz.Crampon: AutomaticWhat we like: Very warm and comfortable; lighter than the Spantik.What we don’t: Noticeably less stiff, less technical-feeling, and less durable than the Spantik/Phantom 6000; Boa system is hard to repair in the field. Just because you wear a size 44.5 street shoe doesn’t mean that it will translate directly into a big mountaineering boot. The La Sportiva Oly Mons was updated to the “Cube” this year, and the improvements were significant. For example, the Makalu is a favorite for National Outdoor Leadership School students since it serves as a combination heavy-backpacking-and-light-mountaineering boot. Some tend to be slightly narrower (La Sportiva and Arc’teryx) while others routinely have a slightly boxier feel (Scarpa). Your feet swell as you stand on them, so we recommend trying boots on in the afternoon after you have been walking around for a few hours. The La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube S has the added advantage of a BOA system that has replaced traditional lacing making adjustment ⦠5.1 oz.Crampon: AutomaticWhat we like: Classic design for general mountaineering, no frills, extremely durable, cheap.What we don’t: Limited to basic mountaineering and heavier than similar boots. La Sportiva Men's Karakorum Hiking Shoe 4.4 out of 5 stars 57. The only thing worse than losing feeling in your toes is the shooting pain that comes when they warm up. Scarpa Phantom 8000 Mountaineering Boot. It's not a 7000m boot. The thin sole and toe welt showed wear, and the fixed gaiter zipper broke after one short trip. If it’s a toss-up, we do recommend erring on the side of warmth, and the good news is that many modern boots offer great insulation alongside performance. And every boot has a unique fit and it can take some work to dial it in. Scarpa Phantom 8000 Mountaineering Boot. Incl. Category: Lightweight mountaineeringBody design: Single syntheticWeight per pair: 3 lbs. So, it has the ability to withstand harsh climates. All of these boots prioritize precision and performance for technical ice climbing. If the Scarpa Phantom Tech is the race car of mountaineering boots, the Inverno is the tank. C1 crampons. Wearing too tight boots can turn your adventure into a nightmare with blisters and foot injuries. A great mountaineering boot fills countless roles: it must offer support while carrying heavy loads, grip confidently over slick rock and snow, keep your feet warm when the mercury dips, and allow for the attachment of crampons and skis. And if you’re still torn between the two, we’d recommend making a decision based on fit: as with most of their boots, the Scarpa will have a wider fit and the La Sportiva a bit narrow. So, this is popular among female mountaineers as well. Heavy backpackers also prefer this boot as it has the quality to withstand years of abuse. La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube Mountaineering Boot. That is why it’s imperative to have the proper boot design for your objective. Julbo Explorer 2.0. $22.99 shipping. This protects your feet from rain and snow. B3 boots are rigid, heavy, and usually have leather or plastic as their construction materials. To be sure, it’s harder to move fast with more weight, but serious mountaineering typically does not involve highly technical climbing for extended stretches. And, the gaiter consists of breathable Cordura and anti-perforation fabric. If your mountaineering climb is too technical, then you should go for B3 boots. As the boot is compatible with step-in crampons, the boot is great for technical climbing and mountaineering on steep peaks. The La Sportiva Olympus Mons is among the most popular Best Mountaineering Boots on the market for extreme cold. La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube Mountaineering Boot. Unfortunately, the 2-millimeter plastic heel welt (where the crampon lever secures) is built onto this weak, soft foam foundation, and our tester actually had his completely break off while on a climbing trip in Alaska. But it does offer less upper ankle support than boots like the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX or Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX, both of which extend higher above the ankle for more rigidity. 'Triple-Boots' for 8000m or very cold peaks (eg Cho Oyu, Everest, Denali) such as Millet Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 800. The Inverno is far less technical in nature than an option like the Spantik or Phantom series, but it will outlast them all. In terms of ability, these boots climb like a dream (for double boots, that is). You may be a 44.5 in La Sportiva, a 44 in Scarpa, and a 45 with a thick insole in Arc’teryx, for example. Therefore, the boot should be strong enough to withstand anything that the harsh climate and the rocky paths present. Scarpa Phantom 8000 Mountaineering Boot. For greater warmth, the boot has a thermo-reflective aluminum layer too. Both boots are extremely warm and well made with huge attention to detail. While the Phantoms have been OK, there’s a very good reason why 95% of climbers on 8000 metre peaks wear just two makes of boot: Millet Everest, or these ones (a figure gleaned from my own observation rather than a thorough statistical analysis). If weight savings and warmth are your main concerns, the G2 SM will not disappoint.See the La Sportiva G2 SM. 15 oz.Crampon: AutomaticWhat we like: A highly versatile and remarkably comfortable boot that is lighter than competing models; comes in both men’s and women’s sizing.What we don’t: Leather absorbs water more readily than synthetic boots, and weight savings come at the expense of durability. The boot also has a good moisture management for no-stink performance. 20% Tax. In terms of competition, the Phantom Tech is similar to the Arc’teryx Acrux AR and La Sportiva G5 below in warmth, weight, and features. On the other hand, Scarpa’s Phantom Tech or Lowa’s Mountain Expert GTX Evo will excel at climbing ice at moderate temperatures but are not meant for extremely cold weather. By removing or adding thin or thick layers you . Both designs will allow some breathability, but not nearly as much as a boot without a waterproof liner. New features and technological advances are great, but sometimes you just want something that is hard to kill and can get the job done. 0 bids. Lastly, the Phantom 6000 only comes in full sizes, and many might find the heel pocket to be noticeably broad. Category: Extreme cold/high-altitudeBody design: Double syntheticWeight per pair: 4 lbs. Mountaineering boots don’t have lock-down modes like backcountry ski boots, but many now feature an upper and lower lacing system to isolate tightness to specific parts of the boot (like the La Sportiva Oly Mons Cube). The Olympus Mon has received a major overhaul for 2019. If your aim is technical climbing—pitch after pitch of near vertical climbing—size and weight will likely be a deciding factor in your boot purchase. It really needs no introduction because it is such a popular boot among mountaineers, especially those who have some ice in their way on the way to the summit. The La Sportiva Olympus Mons is perhaps the most popular double boot on the market for extreme cold. Its EVA cushioning insoles are removable. And price aside, the Alpine Expert is a reliable choice for a wide range of activities from basic mountaineering to technical ice and mixed climbing. Always try on your boots well before a trip—a little extra heel room quickly can develop into a show-stopping blister that keeps you from reaching the summit. And for $50 less, it gets the price advantage as well. For Rainier an 8000m boot would be a poor choice, they are too warm and too heavy. But for the right setting, the Trango Tech fills a much-needed niche for the most weight-conscious of alpinists... Read in-depth reviewSee the Men's La Sportiva Trango Tech See the Women's La Sportiva Trango Tech. That said, it’s worth noting that he loved the design of the Spantik enough to purchase a replacement pair.See the La Sportiva Spantik. Used on one 20 day trip to Antarctica. On paper, there is a lot to like about the La Sportiva Trango Ice Cube GTX, which is the latest iteration of the classic “Silver Bullet” Trango Extreme (and the insulated and gaitered sister of the Trango Cube GTX). For more background information, see our buying advice and comparison table below the picks. New-age double boots like the Scarpa Phantom series or La Sportiva Spantik are technical climbing machines with rock shoe-like precision and a high level of warmth. Most significantly, Scarpa trimmed down the outsole, swapped out the OutDry waterproof membrane with their new HDry, and replaced the previous wraparound zipper with a simpler design along the outside that interferes less with the foot’s flex. Regardless, if you aren’t planning on spending much time at freezing altitude or are on a tight budget, the Inverno may be the boot for you.See the Scarpa Inverno. These boots are a technical step up in construction from a hiking boot and built to handle long approaches. Although Scarpa’s footwear is known for being wider than La Sportiva, we felt that these boots fit very similar to the La Sportiva G2 SM.See the Scarpa Phantom 6000. Light, grippy sole, and stretch gaiter for better warmth, the boot has what it takes to be a top-class mountaineering boot. Price £160.00. Incl. But most importantly, it must instill trust and confidence. Scarpa "6000" stands for 6000m. And, its full rubber rand and Fore-Tex lining give comfort and warmth. SCARPA makes performance-driven and purpose-built backcountry skiing, climbing, hiking, mountaineering, trail running, and telemark footwear. Category: Extreme cold/high-altitudeBody design: Double syntheticWeight per pair: 5 lbs. 6.4 oz.Crampon: Semi-automaticWhat we like: Great price point, rocker is suited for long approaches, lightweight, comes in both men’s and women’s models.What we don’t: Not super durable or warm due to the lightweight fabrics. Having the ability to tighten the boot down when ice climbing or skiing and then loosening it when hiking is essential. The main protagonists are La Sportiva (Olympus Mons), Scarpa (8,000ers) and Millet (Everest), and The North Face is also a more recent newcomer with their Verto S8K. Besides, mountaineers admire its reliable connection with the crampon. There have been several iterations over the years, but the concept has stayed largely the same: a durable leather boot that excels across the spectrum of mountaineering. A good insole should support your foot, both in terms of supporting your arch and cupping your heel. So, if you are planning to meander through the mountains and climb onto high peaks, Scarpa Menâs Mont Blanc Goretex can be an ideal option for you. And in terms of durability, the G2 SM seems to be slightly less durable than the Spantik or Scarpa Phantom 6000, though neither boot can match its light weight. Price £800.00. Manufacturers use Gore-tex membrane to build this boot which makes the boot waterproof and breathable. Price £360.00. It has 3D Edging Chassis that provides good stability and support. It will be light enough to wear on a lengthy approach, but offer enough support to keep your feet comfortable under the weight of a heavy pack. The cushioning is ergonomic and lasting which offers superior shock absorption on rough and steep terrains. For giant ice routes in the Canadian Rockies, alpine-style ascents of lower mountains in the Alaska Range, and even mid-season climbs of Denali, a 4-season technical alpine boot may be your best bet. By removing or adding thin or thick layers you . Salewa Menâs Pro Guide Performance Fit Hiking Boot is one of those top mountaineering boots that mountaineers prefer a lot. They do have limited technical performance, however, as they do not secure as tightly to the boot as a step-in or semi-automatic crampon. Category: 4-season technical alpineBody design: Single leatherWeight per pair: 3 lbs. or Best Offer. Out of stock. You will get slightly more durability and protection from the Cube, which is worth considering if weight is not your top concern (for even more durability, check out the La Sportiva Trango Tower). The boot has a bold design with small red highlights in its full black surface. Single boots almost always have more of a next-to-skin feel, meaning they feel more technical and lower profile than their double-walled brethren. The Nepal last provides stiffness and support with a Vibram Matterhorn sole for great traction in slick conditions. 13.4 oz.Crampon: AutomaticWhat we like: A versatile and durable boot for everything from basic mountaineering to technical climbing.What we don’t: Slightly less rocker than other lightweight boots. There’s an old adage in the outdoor gear world: “between light, durable, and cheap, you can pick two of the three.” Over the last decade or so, mountaineering boots have seen a tremendous jump in precision and technical design, while also cutting some weight. At only 150 grams, the new Furia Air ($199) is the lightest climbing shoe… The black, yellow, and silver color combine to give the sturdy boot a beautiful design. Rab. B2 boots support C1 and C2 crampons; so you can use this boot in glacier traverses, winter climbing, alpine climbing, and winter scrambling. 8000 Meter Boots; Millet Everest Summit Gore-Tex: La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo: Scarpa Phantom 8000: Lowa Expedition 8000 Rd GTX: 1330g/2.93 lbs each: 1413g/3.11 lbs each He recently put the Ice Cube GTX to the test on Nemesis, a classic Canadian Rockies WI6 ice climb, and although they climbed even better than the Trango Extremes, they were not quite as warm and their lifespan fell tragically short. Single boots are built with an insulated and often waterproof liner. They have used Carbon fiber and EVA for insole which gives the boot rigidity whereas the midsole has shock-absorbing microporous EVA. These boots have semi-stiffened midsole with a supportive upper. For example, our La Sportiva Trango Tech GTX took a beating during a two-week traverse in the Alaska Range, whereas a leather model might have just started to feel broken in. If you are planning to cross wide glaciers and climb onto snow-covered summits with Arc’teryx Acrux AR, it will not disappoint you. The Achilles' heel of the La Sportiva Trango Ice Cube GTX is durability. Trango EVO Extreme boots. If you do opt for a leather boot (such as the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX or Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX), we recommend adding an aftermarket snow and water seal to keep moisture from soaking through and weighing you down. But, you cannot compromise the warmth and quality while mountaineering at an extreme climate. The Mons Evo is a super light double boot with inner boot insulation and a thermo-reflective lined outer boot. Although Arc’teryx calls the Acrux AR a double boot, it’s less so than the Scarpa 6000 or La Sportiva Spantik. £835.00. The average mountain climber will get many years of use out of their boots. Out of stock. Most of the models listed above technically are unisex, while a few like the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX, Scarpa Charmoz, and Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX also come in women’s-specific versions. And, the nylon/fiberglass shanks offer the support and rigidity needed during mountaineering. The La Sportiva Trango Cube GTX—or “the little red boot” as it has often been called—has been a staple of low-altitude mountaineering for years. Category: High alpine tours up to 6,000 meters. Also, the boot is lightest in its class. Expedition Salopettes. Absurdly light for the amount of insulation they provide, with a pretty nice fit too. One of our biggest complaints about the last iteration was the soft rubber on the sole, which has been replaced with a more durable Vibram Litebase compound.